Why Exterior Paint Fails: UV Degradation vs Alkali Attack
Exterior paint failure is one of those home-maintenance headaches that looks simple on the surface- “my paint is peeling, let’s repaint it.”
But the truth? Two completely different forces may be destroying your walls:
- UV degradation from sunlight
- Alkali attack from fresh or poorly cured cement
Both create peeling, fading, chalking, and discolouration…
But each needs a different fix. Repainting blindly can make the problem worse.
Below is a clear, homeowner-friendly guide (with technical depth) on how to correctly diagnose what’s happening before you spend money on repainting.
UV Degradation – What It Looks Like & Why It Happens
You’ve seen this:
Paint fades unevenly, looks dull, becomes powdery, or completely loses its original colour.
That’s UV degradation, and it happens because:
- Sunlight breaks down the binder that holds pigment together
- Pigments lose their colour stability
- Resin weakens and turns chalky
- Dark colours fade faster because they absorb more heat
How to identify UV degradation:
- Rub the wall; if colour comes off like powder → chalking
- Extremely faded patches on sun-exposed sides
- No dampness or bubbling- just dryness and dullness
- Paint surface feels dusty or brittle
Most common areas:
South-west facing walls → maximum UV exposure
Parapets, exposed balconies, roof walls
UV damage = age + sunlight, not cement reactions.
If your exterior walls already show dullness or chalking, a professional exterior painting service can restore the finish with UV-stable coatings while preventing future sun damage.
Alkali Attack – A Deeper, Chemical Problem Most Homeowners Miss
This is the one painters often blame on “bad paint,” but the real cause is your wall chemistry.
Fresh cement, new plaster, or damp walls release free lime (alkali).
When paint touches this alkalinity, the binders break down → causing burning, patchiness, and peeling.
What does alkali attack look like?
- Yellowish or brownish stains pushing through the paint
- Blistering, flaking, or peeling in patches
- Paint looks “burnt” or uneven within months of application
- Efflorescence (white salt crystals) visible near peeled areas
Quick wall test:
Put a pH strip on a dampened patch.
- pH 8 or below → safe
- pH 9-11 → risky for painting
- pH 12+ → guaranteed alkali attack
Most common scenarios:
- Painting over new plaster within 30-45 days
- Using poor-quality primer or skipping primer
- Moisture seepage causing the lime to migrate outward
- Repainting without removing chalking or salts
If your wall shows repeated moisture-driven alkali damage, targeted waterproofing services help stabilise the surface before repainting.
Alkali attack = chemical destruction, not sunlight.
UV vs Alkali – The Side-by-Side Diagnosis Guide
Below is a quick cheat sheet that homeowners love referencing:
Symptom | UV Degradation | Alkali Attack |
Chalking | Yes | Rare |
Fading | Strong indicator | Not related |
Patchy peeling | No | Common |
Stains (yellow/brown) | No | Yes |
Powdery feel | Yes | Sometimes with efflorescence |
Happening on new plaster | No | Very likely |
Happens only on sun-exposed areas | Yes | Not related |
Efflorescence | No | Yes |
Even painters confuse these two, which is why misdiagnosis is so common. A professional home inspection can identify whether the root cause is UV exposure, moisture, or alkaline salts- before you invest in repainting.
How to Fix Each Problem Correctly Before Repainting
If it’s UV degradation → solution is straightforward
- Wash or scrub chalking off
- Apply UV-resistant exterior primer
- Choose exterior paints with higher UV stability (acrylic, silicone-based)
- Prefer lighter colours to reduce fade
- Repaint every 4–6 years in harsh climates
Best suited products:
100% acrylic exterior paints, elastomeric coats, or silicone-enhanced finishes.
If it’s alkali attack → you need corrective steps
This one needs more precision:
- Remove all loose paint completely
- Wash the wall to remove salts
- Allow the wall to dry fully
- Test pH again (must be under 9)
- Apply alkali-resistant primer (mandatory)
- Finish with exterior paint
If pH doesn’t drop even after drying →
You’re likely dealing with rising damp, and waterproofing repairs are needed before repainting.
When to call a professional?
- If the paint keeps peeling despite repainting
- If efflorescence returns repeatedly
- If wall moisture levels are unclear
- If the home is near coastal or high-humidity areas
Correct diagnosis = cost savings + longer paint life. If structural cracks are allowing moisture to enter the walls, wall crack filling services ensure a stable surface before applying fresh exterior paint.
The Final Word
At the end of the day, exterior paint failure isn’t just cosmetic- it’s a message from your wall.
UV degradation and alkali attack look similar, but solving them requires completely different approaches. If you misdiagnose, you waste time, money, and labour… and the problem comes back within months.
At Clean Fanatics, we inspect the wall scientifically- checking pH, moisture, UV exposure patterns, and existing paint chemistry- so you know exactly what your wall needs before you repaint. Smart diagnosis leads to durable results
Look for stains, patchy peeling, efflorescence, and issues on new plaster. Do a pH test if unsure.
Ideally 45-60 days, or until pH drops below 9.
Direct sunlight causes UV degradation, especially on dark shades.
Yes-walls with moisture issues can show alkali problems on one side and UV fading on others.
100% acrylic or silicone-based paints with UV-resistant pigments.